Why Won't My Washing Machine Work? 8 Common Faults (and How to Fix Them)

Your washing machine stops working, and suddenly it's an emergency. Wet laundry sitting in the drum, kids' uniforms needed by morning, no idea what's wrong or how much it's going to cost to fix.

Before you call a technician — or panic-buy a replacement — work through this guide. We've covered the 8 most common washing machine faults in Australian homes, what causes them, and what you can do about each one. We've also included an honest breakdown of when repair makes financial sense and when replacing is actually the smarter move.

 

8 Most Common Washing Machine Problems in Australian Homes

1. Won't Start or Turn On

What you'll see: You press the power button and nothing happens. No lights, no response, or the machine powers on but won't begin a cycle.

Most likely causes:

• The power cord isn't fully plugged in, or the outlet has tripped

• The door or lid isn't fully closed (most machines won't start unless the door is latched)

• Child lock is activated

• The water supply tap behind the machine is turned off

• A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker

What to try first: Check the power outlet by plugging in something else. Confirm the door clicks fully shut. Check whether the child lock is on — usually held down for 3–5 seconds on a specific button (check your manual). Make sure the water inlet taps are open.

If none of that works, the issue may be with the door latch mechanism, the control board, or the lid switch on a top loader — all of which require a technician.

 

2. Not Draining or Not Spinning

What you'll see: The cycle finishes, but clothes are soaking wet, or water remains sitting in the drum.

Most likely causes:

• A blocked drain pump filter (the most common cause — and easy to fix yourself)

• A kinked or clogged drain hose

• An unbalanced load causes the machine to skip the spin cycle as a safety measure

• A faulty pump motor

What to try first: Most front loaders have a filter access panel at the bottom front. Place a towel and shallow tray underneath, unscrew the filter cap slowly, and drain any water. Clean out any lint, coins, or debris — this fixes the problem more often than you'd expect.

Also, check that the drain hose at the back isn't kinked or pushed too far down into the standpipe. Redistribute an unbalanced load and try again.

 

3. Vibrating Loudly or Moving Across the Floor

What you'll see: The machine shakes violently during spin, makes a loud banging noise, or walks across the laundry floor.

Most likely causes:

• The machine isn't level — the most common cause

• Transport bolts weren't removed when the machine was installed (common on newer machines)

• Overloaded drum

• Worn drum bearings (more serious)

What to try first: Check that all four feet are making firm contact with the floor and adjust the levelling feet until the machine doesn't rock. If the machine was recently delivered and this started immediately, check whether the transport bolts at the back were removed — these bright yellow or red bolts are fitted to lock the drum during shipping and must come out before use.

If the machine is level, bolts are out, and it's still banging loudly during spin, worn drum bearings are likely — this is a repair job.

 

4. Leaking Water From the Bottom

What you'll see: Puddles under or around the machine during or after a cycle.

Most likely causes:

• Damaged or loose door seal (front loaders)

• Overfilling with detergent causes excess suds

• A cracked or loose hose connection at the back

• A faulty pump or tub seal

What to try first: Check the door seal on front loaders for any visible tears, debris caught in the seal, or mould buildup causing a poor seal. Wipe it clean and inspect carefully. Also check the inlet and drain hose connections at the back — they can loosen over time.

If you're using powder or liquid detergent, confirm you're using the correct amount for your machine and water type. Too much detergent causes excessive suds that can force water out of the machine.

 

5. Error Codes on the Display

What you'll see: A code like E1, F3, UE, or similar appears on the display, and the machine stops mid-cycle.

What to do: Error codes are your machine's way of telling you exactly what's wrong. The code meanings vary by brand, so look up your specific brand and model number along with the code. Common ones include:

Search "[your brand] [error code] Australia" for the exact diagnosis. Most brands also have this in the manual, which is usually available as a PDF on the manufacturer's website.

 

6. Won't Fill With Water

What you'll see: The machine starts, but the drum stays empty or fills very slowly.

Most likely causes:

• The water inlet tap behind the machine is turned off or not fully open

• Blocked inlet filter screens (small mesh filters inside the hose connections)

• Low water pressure in your home

• A faulty water inlet valve

What to try first: Turn the inlet taps fully open and check that both hot and cold supplies are connected if your machine uses both. Unscrew the inlet hoses from the back of the machine and check the small mesh screens inside the connection — these catch sediment and can completely block over time. Rinse them under a tap and refit.

 

7. Clothes Coming Out Still Dirty

What you'll see: Laundry finishes a full cycle but still looks or smells dirty.

Most likely causes:

• Using too little detergent, or the wrong type for your machine

• Overloading the drum (clothes can't move freely enough to get clean)

• Washing at too cold a temperature for the soil level

• A dirty machine — detergent residue and mould buildup inside the drum

What to try first: Run a drum clean cycle or a hot empty cycle with a washing machine cleaner tablet. Check you're using HE (high efficiency) detergent if you have a front loader. Don't overfill — a washing machine drum should be no more than three-quarters full for optimal cleaning.

 

8. Burning Smell or Tripping the Power

What you'll see: A burning or electrical smell during operation, or the machine causes your circuit breaker to trip.

What to do: Stop using the machine immediately. A burning smell or repeated power tripping indicates an electrical fault — this is not something to troubleshoot yourself. Disconnect the machine from the power outlet and call a qualified appliance technician or electrician before using it again.

 

How to Decide: Repair or Replace Your Washing Machine?

Once you know what's wrong, the next question is whether to fix it or replace it. Here's how to think through that decision.

The 50% Rule

A widely used rule of thumb in appliance repair: if the repair cost is more than 50% of the cost of a comparable replacement, replace it.

For example, if a new comparable washing machine costs $800 and the repair quote is $450, replacement makes more financial sense — especially once you factor in that a repaired older machine may develop further faults soon after.

 

Average Repair Costs in Australia (2026 Guide)

Callout fee alone is typically $80–$150 before any parts or labour.

When Repair Makes Sense

• The machine is less than 4 years old
• The fault is minor (filter, hose, door seal)
• You have a warranty that covers the repair
• The repair cost is well under 50% of a replacement

When Replacement Makes More Sense

• The machine is 8+ years old
• You're facing a major repair (motor, drum bearings, control board)
• The repair cost approaches or exceeds 50% of a replacement
• The machine has had multiple faults in the past 12 months
• You need it working urgently and can't wait for a repair appointment

 

What's the Cheapest Way to Replace a Broken Washing Machine Fast?

If you've decided replacement is the right call, you don't have to pay full retail price. Factory seconds and refurbished washing machines offer the same performance as brand-new units — at significantly lower prices.

Factory Seconds vs Brand New — Real Price Comparison

Factory seconds washing machines are brand new — never used in a home — just discounted for cosmetic imperfections like a small dent on the side panel or a scuffed lid. Once the machine is in your laundry, you'll never see the difference.

Same-Day Delivery Options

If you need a replacement today, Lucky White Goods offers same-day delivery across major Australian cities:

• Sydney (Alexandria and Seven Hills)
• Melbourne
• Reservoir
• Brisbane & Gold Coast
• Adelaide
• Perth

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I fix a washing machine myself?
Some faults — like cleaning a blocked filter, clearing a kinked hose, or removing transport bolts — are safe DIY fixes. Anything involving electrical components, the motor, or internal water seals should be handled by a qualified technician.

How long do washing machines last in Australia?
The average lifespan is 8–12 years with regular use. Front loaders tend to last slightly longer than top loaders when maintained well. Once a machine is over 8 years old and developing faults, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair.

Is it worth repairing a washing machine that's 10 years old?
Generally not, unless the repair is very minor and inexpensive. A 10-year-old machine has already lived most of its useful life, and a major repair could easily be followed by another fault within months.

Where can I buy a cheap replacement washing machine in Australia?
Lucky White Goods stocks factory seconds, refurbished, and near-new washing machines at all locations. Same-day delivery is available across Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, and Perth.

What is a factory seconds washing machine?
 A factory seconds washing machine is a brand-new unit that has never been used in a home. It's been discounted because of a cosmetic imperfection — a scratch, dent, or box damage — not a mechanical fault.

Browse Washing Machines

If your machine isn't worth repairing, here's where to start:

• Factory Seconds Washing Machines & Dryers
• Washer-Dryer Combos
• All Factory Seconds Appliances
• Combo Deals — Fridge + Washing Machine